This circular knitting machine comes in a wide range of sizes, shapes and varieties. It is designed for almost any type or weight knitting yarn. The Singer is not as popular and in-demand as the other circular machines such as the Addi, but it does have certain features that make it extremely valuable for serious knitters.
Singer Knitting Machines and attachments are readily available for nearly any yarn weight and style so even working with those difficult yarns like the ribbon yarns, the lace yarns and even the chunky yarns that sometimes create problems on knitting machines can be easily worked with.
With this machine, you can knit scarves hats shoulder bags socks forearm warmers and more. People are just so busy right now that most of the hobbies we do are done during very little spare time. If you do knitting just once a week or very infrequent, I recommend starting with the affordable knitting models like the Singer.
Once you develop a deeper sense of attachment and passion to knitting that you decide to knit further, you might want to invest into top-of-the-line knitting machines.
Most knitters collect these knitting machines and try them out each. Flatbeds suggested above can also be used. If you want, you can also look into metal knitting machines. By now you know how knitting can be a very expensive investment or an affordable pastime.
Flat Beds are much more expensive than Circular knitting machines but some knitters prefer them depending on the type of garments they want to produce. On the part of circular machines, Addi is the most expensive, but is the most sought after because of quality and durability. If you want an affordable alternative you can try out the Prym or Singer model.
When you are sourcing for the best knitting machine out there, it really boils down to what you want to achieve and how much your budget is. A lot of knitters prefer trying out different domestic knitting machines and writing their reviews on each. If you want to buy new ones at a cheap price, Sintelli offers circular knitting machines.
Keep in mind that these machines are for making huge amounts of garments in a day and are used for bulk garment orders. They are very heavy and takes a lot of space. Welcome to Leader in Knitting Machinery Since Let's Keep In Touch. Facebook Twitter Linkedin Email. Hand knitting vs. Machine Knitting: What hand knitters ought to know before buying a knitting machine Talk about speed knitting and surely, knitting in machine would come to mind.
Advantages and Disadvantages of Hand Knitting and Machine Knitting Weighing pros and cons between knitting by hand and by machine As mentioned earlier, speed and efficiency is the number one advantage of knitting machines over hand knitting. Knitting machines have automatic features that can create your patterns in minutes while maintaining consistency of the design.
Flexibility in changing design patterns in the middle of a knitting session can be easily done with hand knitting than in machines. Intricate designs can be done both on a knitting machine and with hand knitting.
However, if you are not actually good in hand knitting, you can still knit colorful garments with intricate pattern with machine knitting. For large projects, knitting in machines is a wonderful way to finish it in a much quicker time. You can be more creative with hand knitting. Hand knitting is also a calming way to release stress and tension in your mind.
Depending on the machine used, some knitting machine produces loud noises while stitching. Different Yarns for Different Knitting Machines In hand knitting, the size of the knitting needle or the hook size for crocheting varies for different yarn sizes. Lace weight yarn : This is the lightest weight yarn that can be used for lightweight items such as thin garments, doilies, and shawls. This is not recommended for beginner knitters.
Super fine, fine, light yarn : This yarn is a fingering weight or sport weight yarn for knitting smaller items, such as baby hats, socks, mittens, and smaller garments. Bulky and super bulky : Thicker needles are used to knit this yarn.
It is suitable for knitting bulky blankets, comforters, curtains and sweaters. Selection of Suitable Knitting Machine Gauge Gauge is used both in hand knitting and machine knitting to indicate fineness size. Fine Gauge Machines Produce an extremely fine yarn and lightweight knitted texture. Needles are set at 3. Suitable for sport-weight knitted garments. Knits the thinnest yarns that a person uses in knitting lace weight to fingering weight items.
Ideal for business wear, casual wear and for everyday use. Standard gauge machines The needles are set 4. Knitters use a coned yarn in this type of machine to knit socks, gloves, baby weight yarns.
Mid-gauge machines Its needles are 6. One of the most recommended knitting machines for hand knitters. A knitting machine built for flexibly knitting all types of yarns — from sport weight to a light worsted yarn.
Bulky or chunky machines Used for knitting the thickest and heaviest yarns. Needles are 9mm apart from each other. Express Machines Highly recommended for beginners. It is smaller than the ones being used in fabricating a large volume of knitted garments, making it a portable type of machine. Flat Bed Knitting Machines vs. Circular Knitting Machines Domestic knitting machines that any beginner can learn easily are Flat Bed Knitting machines and Circular Knitting machines.
Give yourself a good few months at least. If you have no dealer to give you lessons, expect to have times of frustration. The internet is a good place to link up with other machine knitters, and machine knitters have had to learn to survive and assist each other through the written word.
But if you don't want the frustration, buy a knitting machine from a knitting machine dealer. Bottom line, I'm being honest here! There is nothing like a good dealer to slash away at a knitting machine learning curve. Once you are comfortable and smiling at your knitting machine and it is smiling back! Think about your hand knit projects. What can or can not be translated easily. If it can't be translated, what knitting machine technique can you use as a substitute. Today I knit the back of an infant vest.
It has 1x1 rib and set in armholes. It took me 30 minutes and it was off the knitting machine. It was fast. Unfortunately, this knitting machine gets a bit of a tighter gauge, and once it was off the knitting machine and allowed to relax, I can see I need to knit it again at a whole tension looser, as I got less than 11" wide, when my plans were for a 12" wide back.
My original design had been worked up on a Brother standard bed, but today I knit this on a Silver standard bed. But since it only took 30 minutes, I'll do it again. Once I have determined what gauge this knitting machine will knit this yarn to, I can pretty much count on it. I make notes in my notebook for future projects. Next time, this vest will take me much less time. Ways to improve your knitting machine skills is to interact with other machine knitters. Find a local knitting machine group or club.
I have ladies that drive as much as 3 hours to attend meetings. Go to a different machine knitting seminars each year. Join some email discussion groups on the internet. In other words, communicate with other machine knitters. The purpose of this article is not to discourage you from machine knitting, but to help you to understand what machine knitting really is. Hand knitters that have achieved success with machine knitting, still continue to hand knit.
I have one project, when completed, will have some parts hand knit, some machine knit and crochet trim. Machine knitting is just another creative outlet to master. What every hand knitter should know before buying a knitting machine. Cast on is pretty common for both methods. In both machine and hand knitting there are numerous ways to cast on. Which technique you use depends on what the designer has decided, or what you have built up from your experience. I have found that the long tail cast on in hand knitting matches the latch tool cast on in machine knitting.
And more recently I have seen a very well known hand knit teacher and designer teaching her students to latch tool cast on or crochet hook over hand knit needles. This same teacher is extremely knowledgeable about knitting machines.
Cast off or bind off is quite a bit different between hand and machine knitting. Hand knitters will knit until they have 2 stitches on their right needle, then slip one over the other. Machine knitters will knit their last row, then using a latch tool, do a chain stitch-type of bind-off on the knitting machine. Actually when they are completed, they are very similar. But when you have 1 needle with 50 sts on it, the cast off technique has to be much different than when you have 50 sts on 50 hooks.
Decreasing stitches. This has been rather fun for me over the past few years. I have decided that left and right leaning stitches on a knitting machine are ALOT easier to match than with hand knitting. I have finally found, after much research and assistance from other hand knit authors, 4 matching leaning stitches. A left and right leaning stitch on the knit side, and a left and right leaning stitch for the purl side. On a knitting machine, it is much, much simpler and easier to understand.
I won't go into the details how here, as that is for another article! Yarn over for lace work. This was another fun challenge for me in hand knitting can you tell I learned to machine knit first!! On a knitting machine, you just use the transfer tool comes with the knitting machine and move the stitch off one needle and place onto one of its adjacent needles which one depends on the charted design you are using.
Now the adjacent needles has 2 stitches on it, and the original needle is empty. With the pass of the carriage when knitting the next row, the empty needle has yarn laid into its hook -- thus a yarn over! Using waste yarn is very common in machine knitting, and not so common in hand knitting.
When hand knit patterns called for this technique, they used the term "Waste Yarn". Over the years, I've noticed that the term "scrap off" has been replaced in machine knit patterns by "waste yarn off". Same technique, two different terms. The technique itself is a wonderful tool and I've use it whenever the situation calls for it in my hand knitting.
Stockinet As previously stated, flat bed knitting machines default to stockinet fabric. Garter Stitch Garter stitch is a reversible fabric that alternate rows of knit and purl on both sides.
Remove the fabric from the knitting machine onto waste yarn, turn and rehang after each row. This is extremely tedious. These machines were usually two beds of needles fixed together, although they did make single bed machines as well. The needles on these machines are usually 5mm apart. Silver Reed is currently the main company producing machines and importing them into the UK. There is a good second hand market for most makes and more information is available here about buying a second hand machine.
The gauge is the taken from the centre of one needle to the centre of the adjacent needle. The machines work best in the middle of their tension range which is usually adjusted by means of a tension dial on the carriage. If yarn is knitted at the wrong tension it will make the resulting knitting either too stiff or too loose and holey.
It is possible to knit some thicker yarns on every alternate needle, but this will reduce the width of the fabric produced. Patterning: There are a number of different methods of selecting the needles for the patterning on knitting machines. Push Button patterning: buttons are pressed and a handle cranked to select needles as required for every row of pattern on Brother and Toyota machines.
Knitmaster machines have the buttons on the carriage and also require needles to be selected for one repeat of the pattern. Punchcard patterning: needles are selected by the machine according to the pattern punched on a card which is inserted into the card reader. Usually 24 stitch repeat, but some models were 12 or 18 stitch repeat. Fine gauge machines are usually 30 stitch repeat. Electronic patterning: needles are selected by the machine according to a pattern loaded into the computer memory of the machine which can contain up to patterns.
The patterns can be up to stitches wide depending on model of machine. Patterns can also be flipped, rotated and doubled in length and width.
Parts of the pattern can be isolated to create new patterns. Some machines read patterns from mylar sheets or external reader boxes. It is also possible to connect some machines to a computer and input the pattern directly.
There may also be a slot for a pattern cartridge which contains additional patterns. Casting on and off and shaping are done by hand, and the carriage is moved by hand.
Additional stitch patterns such as cables and bobbles can also be worked by hand. Machines can have plastic or metal beds.
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